Instead of the anonymous Australian ‘GSM’ or ‘SGM,’ owner Matt Swinney and winemaker Rob Mann’s ambition here is to produce a Bandol-inspired wine that showcases the qualities of the Mourvèdre grape (60% in 2020…planned to be even more in future vintages). This has fabulous, complex, savoury meat-stock richness lent grace by a lovely, lilting floral lift. There is masses going on in the mouth: weighty, chewy and terrifically textured. There are layers of tannins upon tannins and yet they are never obtrusive, but instead comforting and velvety. You can enjoy this immediately (decanting recommended), or it will keep for many years.